2020, the beginning of the end for plastic packaging?

Hi guys! In the very beginning of this October, we learnt that L’Oréal would soon wrapped its products in paper. This sounds weird? Well, let me explain!

Indeed, on October 3rd, the French cosmetic group proudly announced that it had developed a sustainable alternative to replace the good old packaging made of plastic, and we thought it was a very good news to share with you at a time where the planet feels in a more and more urgent need of ecological upgrades.

In collaboration with Albéa (the world leader of cosmetic packaging), the launch of the very first cosmetic tube made of cardboard is expected to be on the market next year, after a test phase in April 2020.

"One step further"

The beauty giant and the packaging company have showcased at Luxe pack Monaco during the first week of October, an innovative carton-based cosmetic tube, which sees plastic for the most part replaced with a bio-based, paper-like material. This new technology that would be first tested on La Roche-Posay face and body creams could reduces down to 70% the use of plastic compared to a plastic tube.

According to Philippe Thuvien (VP of packaging and development at L’Oréal), this latest development took L’Oréal “one step further” in its effort to improve the environmental footprint of its packaging. This alternative solution is also part of the Group packaging strategy, which states that “L’Oréal has committed that 100% of its products show an improvement of their environmental/social profile by 2020”.

Furthermore, this project illustrates how collaboration between industry experts is essential for developing breakthrough innovations. L’Oréal and Albéa share a consciousness of their responsibilities as major industrial actors (the 2 companies are committed to the Ellen McArthur Foundation’s New Plastics Economy Global Commitment, which promotes a circular economy).

In my opinion, this is a very good initiative from the French multinational that proves its recent engagements in terms of sustainability – notably its commitment to zero-net emissions by 2050 as part of the United Nations’ Global Compact Business Ambition for 1,5°C – and could pave the way to other big players industry to bring innovative solutions. We know of course that there are more and more new brands that offer ecological and organic products, but when it’s the world leader that sets the tone (+20% global market share in 2018), it’s not the same!

It’s no secret that the cosmetic industry is one of the most polluter in the world. Why? Because it relies on an excess of plastic. Moreover, we know that the ecological matter is probably the biggest challenge for the cosmetic industry. As Gilles Swyngedauw (Albéa’s Innovation & Marketing Director) indicates, “the stakes now are to accelerate the development of innovative responsible solutions and to target strong disruptions in order to break the codes”. An ambitious challenge you would say, but it is clear that, in an industry that is worth more than $550 billion, reducing or eliminating plastic packaging entirely is not a small one either…

But is L’Oréal the only large company that has an active environmental responsibility in the large market of cosmetics?

The BeautyLab team felt this article was a good opportunity to compare L’Oréal commitment to other multinationals on their sustainability strategy, in order to give you a wider and more objective overview!

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Even though L’Oréal Group is far ahead in the global cosmetic market, its competitors are also enormous multinational that are almost as the French leader. That is the case for the multinational manufacturer and marketer Estée Lauder, which has the 3rd world market share in cosmetics.

More concretely, Estée Lauder Companies stated: "By 2025, 75-100% of our packaging will be recyclable, refillable, reusable, recycled or recoverable." This will help ELC increase the amount of post-consumer recycled material in its product packaging by up to 50%. The company will also use responsibly-sourced paper products whenever possible, with a goal

to have 100% of its forest-based fiber cartons

FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certified by 2025.

Over the past years, the Estée Lauder Companies has made sustainability one of its core corporate commitments – alongside with its strong involvement in the breast cancer campaign – and it became central in the way all of its various brands operate.

For example, since 2016, ELC implemented significant solar energy solutions in the United States and in Europe, in support of its Net Zero goal. The firm set up an on-site solar system at its UK-based manufacturing plant which provides 14% of the site's annual electricity requirements, and in 2019, the site generated 815 megawatt hours of solar, saving 483 metric tons of carbon dioxide each year – the equivalent of powering 268 homes in the UK for a whole year!

Moreover, since November 2018, ELC turned to technology to improve its manufacturing process.

The Group has indeed been using 3D printing on its Jo Malone London’s 30 ml fragrance bottles for label alignment of the bottle. In addition to offer a better retail experience, the 3D printing technology has allowed Estee Lauder to design and print new parts in-house, in a more time and cost-efficient matter, and at the same time reducing material waste. A winning ticket!

All this projects clearly show the commitment of the New York City-based company to decrease its environmental footprint at a global scale. ELC continue to express its interest in taking action to ensure a healthier planet, and as Nancy Mahon (Senior VP) said: "The Estée Lauder Companies is proud of our many sustainability and citizenship achievements. Together, we will continue to leverage our current successes to reach and build upon these important new goals." Quite inspiring right?

Ismaël M.